Friday, August 14, 2009

INDONESIA, SULAWESI & GILI AIR

INDONESIA

SULAWESI
I was so so excited to see Claudia again. The last time was two months ago in Thailand and during the past two months we had only had contact through sms, phone and maybe video skype, so it hadn't been easy but we were very excited to see each other. She flew into KL (Kuala Lumpor) and we stayed in a nice hotel there for a couple of nights. I managed to arrange tickets for the last night of the musical Siddhartha. What an experience. The music was very powerful and moving, the costumes full of bright exuberant colours, the lighting was so cleverly used with effects and we even had subtitles in English so we could follow the story of the young prince leaving home against his families wishes and gaining enlightenment. We only stayed a couple of nights in KL before flying to Makassar in Sulawesi and heading south along the coast to Pantai Bira but it was nice just to be together.

Pantai Bira, Sulawesi
After finally arriving at our holiday destination, a plane and a bus later, we settled into our beach bungalow which i thought was ok. To be honest i did have other higher expectations in mind but Claudia loved it. You see, Bira isn't in the Lonely Planet, i just heard about it from a local Sulawesi guide i came into contact with and he recommended it if we were looking for a secluded place. Well it literally was at the end of the world...but in a good way. l think we came across three other western couples throughout our ten days there. There were just large white expanses of beaches with extremely clear turquoise waters with odd fisherman. Claudia said she had never seen any beaches or water as beautiful as this ever. They were exquisite.

I think we were walking around on our first night looking for food when we came across this other place that also had bungalows, but but bigger bungalows with open terraces sitting high up on large stilts over the water. Well when i saw these, i thought, wow, if we could stay here, well...so i spoke to the man, discussed availability and prices, then talked to Claudia to get her feeling of it. She had a look, and also liked them very much too, even more so than where we were so we moved in the next day. Fantastic.

To be honest we didn't do an awful lot when we there. Just talked a lot, swam, sun bathed ate and slept. We just wanted to be together that's all. You know how it is when you're in love ;-). We did the odd walk, i did lots of snorkeling but i had to go far out over the beach reef due to the fisherman using cyanide in the past to catch fish. All the coral was dead near the shore, but it was better further out. On one our walks we did find this absolute paradise of a beach, swaying coconut palm trees hanging over the white sand, blue water and just no one there. No one on the beaches except the two us. Amazing. Even i haven't experienced that much on my journey! I think you'll agree the pictures do do it justice. Simply pure and beautiful.

Our time ended, as is inevitable but it was wonderful. We both thought it was one of the best holidays we ever had. Coming back to KL we spent a couple of days there, Claudia did some shopping and then i took her to the airport, BUT, at the same time my sister Abbie was coming to visit me. In fact Abbie landed a couple hours before Claudia left so they met each other and i wasn't alone but now to be with my favourite and only big sister. How lucky I was!

Gili Air, nr. Lombok, Indonesia (with my sister!)
Abbie and l hadn't see each other for a year. Although we do live in different countries, she in Spain and me in Belgium, we always see each other five or six times a year for 4-5days at a time to spend some quality time with each other. Well a year had passed, with only random phone calls or sms so we had a lot to catch up on. I was so happy and grateful she came out to see me.

Another flight and bus later we were on Gili Air. The Gili islands comprise of three islands, Gili Trawangen, the party island, Gili Meno, which is extremely quiet and Gili Air which has a perfect balance of a few bars and restaurants with people and yet the atmosphere and pace is very chilled. I knew Abbie would like it. Having landed we got some food and then checked out a few places to stay. The island is only 1km by 2km so its pretty easy to get about on a horse and cart. We decided to stay at the Gili Air hotel which was very nice, however after being there a night or two Abbie felt it wasn't nice enough or clean enough or whatever, ...so we moved.

We stayed at these lovely modern clean cottages at Manta Dive where Abbie decided she would try and do her PADI course. I must say, based on her fear of depths of water I was a little surprised but very supportive of her doing it. We first went out together and did some snorkeling just to show Abbie the beautifully coloured fish and coral and to show her that the fish don't bite, in fact they are more scared of us than we should be of them. It worked. After a couple days of snorkeling she no longer held my hand and was out there beside me snorkeling around and exploring pointing the special fish out to me. Magic.
Abbie started her PADI course a couple of days later and i went out with her on the boat and snorkeled above her just to be there for her. You must understand, when one faces any particular, deep routed fear, its a very daunting, testing time. It's not easy as l'm sure you'll appreciate. She was very brave and took baby steps each day. Learning the theory and then applying it in the water with practise. To begin with progress was slow but there was progress each day and we'd talk about it in the evening, the skills, the technique, the fears being faced etc. She was doing well. While at Manata Dives we realised our weeks booking was up and they couldn't prolong our stay due to another booking, but it wasn't a problem, we had both spotted another lovely place to stay. Another dive shop in fact called the Blue Marlin dive centre. A very welcoming and social dive centre in Gili Air. We moved in there for our last week and in fact loved the place. Definitely worth staying at. Again we had a lovely clean modern cottage that we shared and Abbie continued her PADI course. Each day practising her skills in the water and then going out with the dive master to apply what she had learnt. I also came out with her either snorkeling or as on two occasions i dived with her which was a great experience. Diving together in the water, looking at all the coral and fish some 12metres underwater. It was a first for us both together in this wonderful environment. Abbie was successful in gaining her Scuba Padi dive certification which allows her to dive up to 12meters in depth. The teachers we really supportive and Abbie did so well.

Aside from Abbie doing her PADI we just chilled out. We did venture out and visit the other two islands for a day each, which served to show us on the one hand that we had picked the best island that was right for us but it was nice to visit and did enjoy the two islands. We mainly just spent time talking, sunbathing, swimming, eating and sleeping and enjoying some amazing sun sets. It was her first proper holiday in four years, in fact since we went to Sardinia together so chilling out and recharging the batteries was the top priority. I hope and think we were successful. It was very good for me too. I too needed a break from my travels (i know, your thinking oh poor old Luke, what a hard life he has now) especially before going to India so i loved to just chill and do very little.

Shortly thereafter we flew back to KL where we spent a night and then Abbie was off the next day back to the UK and i was busy trying to arrange my visa and flight to India. I was successful and left a few days later, but before buying a small notebook laptop from where i can, in a relaxed way write to you all and share with you in a little more detail my thoughts and feelings about my experiences.

I've tried to add some nice pics so you can get a feel for the island and where we stayed. I would definitely recommend Gili Air as a holiday destination to anyone interested. It has a really nice vibe.

Well its off to India now. I do feel a little anxious. I have heard you either love India or hate it. It is 'sensory overload' I understand. Well we shall see but one thing is for sure, I will not be racing to visit places. The last 12 months have been amazing but travelling for such a period of time can take its toll and with India i have a different agenda. India for me is about my spiritual journey and growth, to learn new things, to possible feel new things within, so again baby steps, we shall see what comes across my path - 'Inshaallah'.

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