Monday, December 28, 2009

NEPAL - HIMALAYAS

NEPAL - HIMALAYAS
Another nightmarish long uncomfortable journey brought me from India into Nepal (I think i am done with these long travels now), however driving through the countryside in the south of Nepal up to Pokhara was breath taking. Large sunny grassy meadows with trees, streams, i thought i could have been somewhere in Europe not Nepal. 19hrs later i arrived in Pokhara at 3am, almost a broken man, I managed to find somewhere to sleep. God knows how!

The next day i was meeting up with a mate, another couple and some other travelers knew who also had just arrived here. We were going to trekking, big time, in the Himalayas. Come on! We met at the Busy Bee pub and excitedly planned our trek to Annapurna Base Camp some 4100m high. Remember Ben Nevis is only bloody 1300m! It was to be a ten day trek, the longest I had ever done but the team and I were up for it. After two days of heavy rain in Pokhara we finally headed off with trekking permits & maps in hand and a box of snickers. We were prepared.
Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)
The six of us, me, Chris, James, Ben, Karnit and Poppy headed off, day one being an up hill climb (every day was!) up many steps, our spirits high. We didn’t have a porter with us just our day bags, we didn’t have a guide with us either but decided to ask the locals for directions and use our great map. However it was only our first afternoon that we nearly took a wrong direction if it wasn’t for a kind local helping us but honestly after day two that the trails are very well trodden and straight forward. We didn’t have any problems finding our way from then on but that's no to say the trek was easy. Very far from it as we soon found out.

The countryside was absolutely breathtaking so although i wasn't sitting in lotus position on a mat meditating, one just look at all the beauty, the vast green valleys & mountains, waterfalls either side and thick primary forest was enough to stop the minds endless chatter. However we all found it quite tough a part from James the Gazelle. Literally thousands of steps going up and down, the incline was too steep for a path! No kidding and one day when i looked at our map, in the bottom corner it stated that the level of our trek we chose was medium to strenuous. I couldn’t believe it, who chooses a trek in the Himalayas that is strenuous. Not me, that’s for Chizal. Dam Rizal! But hey I was on it. Howevere by the end of day two our dear friend from Greece, Poppy, found it all too much and decided not to continue on. We managed to find her a good guide that night to walk her back. She was struggling so all in all I think it was for the best.

Meanwhile along the way we found these deserted lovely little guest houses on route where we stayed. It was fantastic not having any other tourist around with us in the mountains. It was due to us leaving so soon after the rains had stopped. (On the way back the villages were mobbed). It got colder and colder the higher we trekked with no hot showers available but we didn’t care. Accommodation was simple and cheap but thank god for the blankets otherwise i would have frozen. Food was ok but expensive, however one understands porters need to bring it up here which i swear is no easy task so pay the price.
We were heading towards the white snow capped mountains and nothing could stop us, so we thought. James the gazelle set a breath taking pace while the rest of us were just enjoying the scenery whilst trying to keep up somewhat. We were very lucky with both the weather, it being sunny everyday and with clear starry nights and the tranquility (lack of tourists). I really felt that the pace of life here is slow aside from the fact there are on trekkers max 5-6 months of the year, the Himalayas are still a sleepy place on the global map. The remaining five of us were doing well; we had a good map and good information about how long it was between different villages, we had budgeted our money right so we decided to have a mid trek break and stop along the way. We stopped off at this incredible hot spring bath by the river where we spent the afternoon totally chilling and relaxing the muscles. OH MY GOD the hot water was bliss! We then bravely dipped into the ice cold river and then back into the hot springs, beautiful.

After that short but sweat break we headed on up. None of us had given much thought to altitude sickness, knowing that it affects everyone differently and we wont know what will happen until we reach ABC. Well arriving at MBC (Machhapuchhrie Base Camp) we were cold and tired but still felt fine. It's 3700m up, so quite high. Higher than most mountains in Europe. It was at MBC that i felt i was now entering the real Himalayas. All the views before were of lush green mountain ravines and valleys but now we were finally experiencing the snowy mountains. This is what i had been waiting for. We got ourselves sorted with beds then got cards out, ordered some hot drinks & food and shortly thereafter beaded down for the night in anticipation of the last push to ABC the next day. That night we didn’t wake up at dawn like most mornings to see the sunrise we had a lie and headed off around nine for the last two hour slow trek.

It was one of the most beautiful days trekking and i took my time, stopping to rest and take in the mountains. Once again i felt privileged to be here and experience this. The hard work made it all the worthwhile. I was sitting on the banks of this stream looking out across the valley to the famous Fishtail mountain, Machhapuchhrie peak at 8000m high. I was surrounded by snowy
mountains, finally! Sitting there just beholding the views. It’s so easy to be at peace here, to be one. (I hope the video below does a little justice to this awesome nature.) We all arrived safely at ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) some 4100m high, yet the peak of ABC sits above 8000m. Obviously we didn’t attempt to climb that, i would have said no to that honest, that would have been a tad too much!

Anyway, getting to ABC we get a room, did some little walks around base camp then later order some food and bring out the cards. While we're playing simple cards James starts taking ages to make decisions on what to play. Most unlike him, so i give him a hard time and start taking the piss. We all took the piss to be fair but then we soon realised the gazelle was starting to feel the affects of altitude sickness! Chris was next, then me. Brain not working to well, very hazy, slow and i hadn’t smoked any funny cigarettes. Honest. In fact all of us felt a little strange so we bedded down early again that night, but only after doing some serious star gazing, it didn’t affect our sleeping as it can do sometimes but we did all feel a bit wobbly. Its important to acclimatise that’s why we slept one night at MBC previously to get used to the lack of oxygen in the air. Clearly it wasn't enough.
Mission safely accomplished we all headed back to pokhara taking the following days nice and easy. It was yet again another memorable time, I would like to come back to Nepal and trek the Annapurna circuit which takes 19 days! But i will leave that adventure for another time.
SARANGKOT
My time might have been running out, meaning i would have bone home already if i had not got confirmation that i had a place on the annual Buddhist retreat course at Kopan monastery near Katmandu. So i decided to stay for this final month but the course started in three weeks so i chilled in Pokhara for a few days then headed off into the countryside and mountains again. I found a small guesthouse run by Moti and his lovely wife Maya and their four daughters. I decided to stay with the family and help out. where i could. We painted the guesthouse, made and painted four signs, created a new menu and some flyer's on my laptop, i explained the concept of balancing the accounts (monthly Income from assets vs. monthly costs incurred) and i really enjoyed helping out and being with the family. However it being a simple magnificent and peaceful location it was easy for me to reflect on the past year and a half and the years to come and what i really want to do with my precious life. Strange as it may sound to you, i loved my time with Moti, Maya and their four girls as much as i did trekking. Just being with myself, helping the family where i could. Wonderful.